First of all, here is a bit from my manual which does not shed enough light on how to get this done.
Volkswagen Touareg
ENGINE PERFORMANCE 4.2 Liter V8 5V Generic Scan Tool, Engine Code(s): AXQ, BHX
Engine speed (RPM) sensor, checking
Function
The Engine Speed (RPM) Sensor -G28- detects engine speed and reference marks. Without an engine speed
signal, the engine will not start. If the engine speed signal fails while the engine is running, the engine will stop
immediately.
Recommended special tools and equipment
VAG1526 multimeter or VAG1715 multimeter
VAG1594 connector test kit
Wiring diagram
Test requirements
Ground (GND) connections between engine and chassis must be OK.
Ignition switched off.
Test sequence
Disconnect gray 3-pin harness connector (arrow) to Engine Speed (RPM) Sensor -G28-.
Measure sensor resistance between terminals 2+3 at connector to sensor.
Specified value: 480 to 1000 ohms
Check sensor for short circuit between terminals 1+2 as well as 1+3.
Specified value: infinity ohms
If specified values are obtained:
Check wires according to wiring diagram. Refer to Checking wiring.
If specified values are not obtained:
Replace Engine Speed (RPM) Sensor -G28-.
Erase DTC memory of Engine Control Module (ECM). Refer to Diagnostic mode 4: Reset/erase
diagnostic data.
Generate readiness code. Refer to Generating readiness code.
Checking wiring
Connect test box to control module wiring harness. Refer to Connecting test box for wiring test.
Check wires between test box and 3-pin connector for open circuit according to wiring diagram.
Terminal 1 + socket 108
Terminal 2 + socket 90
Terminal 3 + socket 82
Wire resistance: max. 1.5 ohms
Also check wires for short circuit to each other.
Specified value: infinity ohms
If no malfunctions are found in wires:
Remove sensor and check sensor wheel for secure fit, damage, and run-out.
If nothing seems to be wrong with the sensor wheel:
Replace Motronic Engine Control Module (ECM) -J220-. Refer to Engine Control Module (ECM),
replacing.
NOTE: There is a larger-sized gap on the sensor wheel. This gap is the reference mark
and does not mean that the sensor wheel is damaged.
After reading that and looking at a couple of pictures, it was still not clear what it took to remove and replace this sensor. I definitely knew how to test the sensor. Here is the engine bay before I started.
I had to buy spring clamp pliers to remove the spring clamps of the intake hose.
I then removed the intake hose.
Not very much room to work with behind the engine. This is where the upper connection of the sensor is located. As you can see in the second picture.
You can see the gray connector in the mirror. Not an easy location to get your hands.
I also removed the bottom plastic cover.
I also removed part of the hood support so that I had better access.
This process in total took me about 1.5 hours to complete. Not too bad. The part cost about $115 and the dealer would get about 2 hours of labor or about $200.
14 comments:
It has been about 3 weeks since I have replaced the engine speed sensor and no starting issues since.
I hope you will not face this engine starting problem any more.
Still no issues since July when I installed the new sensor. All is well for this problem.
What you replaced is indeed the engine speed sensor. The cam shaft position sensor (crankshaft) is a different part see diagram...
http://www.jimellisvwparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?
ukey_assembly=743619
Anonymous, I am not sure what you are talking about as the camshaft sensor is a different sensor from the crankshaft sensor. I stated in my post that the engine speed sensor is sometimes referred to as the crankshaft sensor. Camshaft and crankshaft are way two different things.
Hello ... replacing my sensor now. Did you have any trouble removing the connector from it's mount? I am able to easily disconnect it from the female end, it is just difficult to remove it from its mount.
Hey Chris, yes it was difficult mostly because it is difficult to see what you are doing when removing it. I tried removing things as much as I could to see better. Tried mirrors and all. I kept looking at the manual pics to see what it looked like. I eventually got it. Keep at it, you will get it removed. Then you have to install it which a bit easier than coming out.
Is it the same location on aV6 and V8?
I don't believe so as they are different engines. But I have not researched it to know for sure.
Is the engine layout the same on the 4.2 phaeton? Would the sensor be in the same spot
I believe that the layout is the same between the 4.2 Phaeton and the 4.2 Touareg.
Hi there Volkster - look at that we're 10 years in the future from your post and it's now my turn to tackle this. Your post has been helpful but I will add that I removed the drivers side wheel and wheel well cover, it helps getting an extended socket in there and with my hand from the bottom guiding it. My problem right now is removing the intake hose after removing the clamps, I think the cold weather ain't helping so tomorrow I will try to heat things up to make it plyable. Then I think getting to the connector will be another battle....wish me luck.
Volkster and Hans now it is my time to resurrect this post. So far it is taking me more than an hour and a half!
Regarding undercarriage pans, I see recommendations to remove the belly pan, which I take to be the one covering the transmission not the engine block. I also see recommendations to remove the left-side wheel well liner.
Which is best to remove?
Hi guys , can someone tell me what size the bolt on the sensor is ? I tried t30 and looks too small , t40 looks too big . i dont got any t35 and i want to be sure before i buy one .
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