Volkster Action

Touareg back hatch shock replacement

2012-02-02T17:56:00.000-08:00

So my Touareg has been getting all the attention lately. Mostly because it is running and my bus is not. However, I now realize that my bus has not run now for about two years. Probably the longest it has been down at one time. I will be working on my bus soon.

My Touareg has a few miles on it. A little over 120k miles so far. I have not changed my drive shaft yet but plenty other things have malfunctioned or wore out. Now, I have replaced every lift support on the Egg. I also replaced the shock for the e-brake. What I have learned in the last escapade was that I don't like working on interiors of cars. Especially newer cars. It takes a lot of patience to do.

Well I changed my worn out shocks (lift supports) for the back hatch of the Egg. My glass had not worked in a few years. I would have to hold it up. It was reasonable heavy. In the past few months, my back hatch now will not stay up and I have been using a shower curtain rod to hold it up.

Changing the lift supports is not that easy to do. They are located between the headliner and the roof in their own little compartments. There are four in all. Two for the window and all four for the hatch. I had to remove the rear headliner piece first which basically pulls straight down. Use the interior tools if you have them to pull on the fasteners rather than them pulling out as they make break. But not always. I then removed the two rear pillar covers and the two rear seat posts (with seat belts on them). I set the rear seat pillar cover as pictured below.

Once the pillar covers were off, I then could start removing the headliner from the rear. There are two clips holding the headliner up that are shaped like an arrow where the pointed part inserts into the roof metal. You can use a screwdriver to push it towards to the center while pulling down on the headliner. It should just pop out and down. There are two hooks above the rear most side windows that have screws in them that must be removed. Then I removed the handles above each rear door by opening the little doors to expose the screws. Once these are removed, the headliner will sag down so be careful as it may crease.

There are two fasteners that hold the headliner above the rear doors. They are pictured below. There are little rubber holders that are attached to the top of these and they come off when you lower the headliner.

Now you can expose the compartments that the lift supports reside.

Now the covers removed.

Sand was found on the part that is to the elements. Probably from desert trips.

Lift support compartment.

The ends of the lift supports come through the body at the top of the hatch where it pivots. The only way to remove the big lift support to move the hatch end towards the center between the two support mounts as far as you can. Then lower the other end through the port opening.

Once the supports are removed installing is the opposite process. Take your time and look at things closely when doing this so you don't break things. I probably saved over $500 doing this myself as the dealer would get at least $100 per hour plus parts. My manual states that this job would take about 5 hours. However, mine is done now and both the back glass and hatch work great.

New tools

2012-01-29T09:33:00.000-08:00

I have recently obtained a new tool with another on the way. The one I have received is a 12 ton press. Not the best in the world but better that what I had, nothing. This will work for installing the cam and distributor gears to the crank. It should help with many other tasks around the shop also.

I have also order this air compressor below. It is an Ingersoll Rand brand. Air compressors seem to range a wide array of quality. It is a hit or miss with most air compressors. I have a Husky from Home Depot and the tank started leaking. I am not a good enough welder to fix it and probably could get it welded but I am afraid that the motor or the pump could be next. It is only a few years old. From what read, the oil less motors do not last that long (approx. 400 to 500 hours of service). The unit that I recently purchased is a cast iron pump that requires oil and a break in period. My old compressor has a 32 gal tank where this one has only 20 gal tank. The old has what appears 9.9 scfm and the new only has about 5.5. However all the reviews (many more than any other brand) for the new compressor state it will not break down and runs all of their impact wrenches, ratchets and grinders. I realize that it will not run them continuously but should run them for what I need.

The model I bought is the Ingersoll Rand Garage Mate Air Compressor — 2 HP, 5.2 CFM, Model# P1.5IU-A9 . I should receive it in about 3 weeks.

Touareg brake check

2012-01-22T21:30:00.000-08:00

Since I have my workshop, it has been easy to work on my cars. There is a lot of room to move around. I have no worries of anyone having issues with me making noise or fumes or anything that goes with working on cars of any kind. With that I put my Touareg on jack stands to check the brakes. I have had the "check the brake pads" message on my dash for some time now. So I wanted to check them to see which is the culprit for the message. So here is the Egg up on the jack stands.

After inspecting the brakes at all corners, I determined that the rear driver side was the brake that was causing the message. I found the wire broken on the inside pad. The outside was not broken but starting to wear through the insulation of the wire. You can see the exposed wire of the outside pad sensor in the picture below.

Once I reconnected the broken wire from the inside pad, the message did not return. I am assuming that grounding the wire does not prompt the message but an open circuit does. Anyway, since the outside pad sensor was wearing through the insulation and it was a matter of a little time before it would trip the worn pad warning message, I did not reinstall the sensor. You can see that I zip tied it to the brake line to keep it out of the way.

There is still plenty of pad left on that side even though it tripped the sensor. Also the rear brakes wear slower than the front. I also have new rear brakes already in the shop. So I will wait until the brakes are all the way worn out then replace to maximize the money.

As long as I can check the brakes this easily, I will take them until just about metal.

New workshop/garage

2011-11-07T06:28:00.000-08:00

I finally did it. I leased a space to do work on my bus and Egg. Or anything else for that matter. The work area is just under 1200 sf. There is some office space also that is handy for taking breaks. Anyway, here is how it looks without too much stuff in it so far. I will be moving my things in over this month (November).

Lobby area.

Office space

Just pulled the bus into the shop.

Used my new tow bar.

Got the ATVs in now.

Once I get set up, I will start working on getting my bus on the road.

New Camping Equipment

2011-09-08T11:37:00.000-07:00

Well, I received some new camping equipment for my birthday from my babe. Jessieca bought me a Weber Q grill. Take a look.

I can't wait to use it.

McCain Valley camping trip 8-5-11

2011-08-08T18:06:00.000-07:00

Another trip to McCain Valley. However, it is always fun to go. We got to the camp site around 1:30pm Friday afternoon. It was about 93 degrees during the day and cooled to the low 60s on Friday night. Saturday was the same except when night rolled around. Sleeping with only shorts on the night before, I decided to the same on Saturday night. While sleeping, I felt a chill which woke me up and I was very cold. I checked the temp and found it to be 51 degrees. A bit too cold to sleep with only a sheet. At least for us southern california types.

Anyway, here is our camp site. Very shady most of the day.

We thought that there would be no water because the water wind mill was not working. But there was pressurized water some how.

Not too many people camping this weekend.

The next shot is from the entrance of our camp site.

The famous camp fire.

The messy camp site. I used my trailer mostly because I could but so Jess could sleep on the way by letting her seat all the way back. So I could not bloat the Egg. Therefore I used the trailer.

This is my music set up during camping. It is a deep cell battery with a inverter hooked up. I can run the boom box non stop all weekend and still have plenty of juice left in the battery to jump a dead battery to start a car.

Our restroom/dressing room

The Egg got a little dirty. We took it out offroading on Saturday. Went about 20 miles of dirt roads and and some hill climbing. Nothing too serious though. However, it was fun hauling down the dirt roads.

Air bag lamp

2011-07-12T07:57:00.000-07:00

I can't seem to get away from the Egg. I do have a little over 109,000 miles on it. So I guess some things are going to wear out. This is all keeping me from getting any time to work on my bus engine so I can get it back on the road and give the Egg a break. The bus has not been on the road in over a year now and that is not good. But I must keep working which means I have to keep at least one vehicle working.

This air bag lamp in the center of the dash keeps flickering and seems to cause an air bag fault that alarms on my dash. If I knock on the lamp itself, the lamp will illuminate and the fault will clear. However, it will come back soon after that. I have finally purchased a new lamp and have installed it. It is easy with the appropriate tools as seen below. It took me about 5 minutes to replace this item.

Below are the tools (the four on the right) that I used to remove the radio.

The tools are inserted with the notch towards the inside of the radio.

As you can see below there are four of these tools that insert to release the radio.

Once inserted, just pull on them and the radio pulls right out.

For this job, I did not remove any wires from the radio. I just moved them out of the way to do what I needed to do.

There is the culprit.

Removed!

Notice the small notch that it aligns with.

These tabs must be pushed inward to release the tools used to remove the radio.

Just push the radio back into place and you are set. Pretty easy.

Received my case back

2011-05-19T14:41:00.000-07:00

I received my case back from Headflow Masters about a week ago. Adrian did a lot of work on this case to bring it back to life. This is a used case that I bought for $200 on the Samba. It is a 1970 type 3 case.

As you can see below, Adrian added ports for a full flow system. This is better for my application because this case is going into my 1971 bus with the rear hanger. Full flow oil pump covers usually interfere with the hanger with exception of the berg cover. Also, most places will drill into the rear facing oil galley for the return which would require a 90 degree fitting. That fitting would interfere with the pulley tin and therefore would require some clearancing.

Lots of welding. Adrian did all the welding first then machining.

Bored for 94s and decked to clean up the cylinder registers.

I wanted this case to be strengthened so Adrian welded behind number 3.

Also for some longevity, I had shuffle pins added to keep the center bearing in place better.

Obviously I had the case align bored too. Even though the case was standard, it needed to bored to + 0.040" over to clean up all the issues.

A type 3 case does not have a dip stick provision for the upright motor. So I had one installed by Adrian. I could have used the bolt on dip stick that bolts to the rear bottom of the case. But it would not be located in the correct position for to go through the tin. I did not want to have to drill new holes for the dip stick.

The case had some wear above the cylinder as you can see below where Adrian put down a weld bead to fill in where the tin wore into the case. It was pretty deep.

Below is the ball, spring and plug for the full flow system that Adrian has created. There is a sleeve that he installed inside the bore for the oil relief valve. So I will not be using the piston that goes into the bore. I will use the ball below.

Adrian also decked my oil pump surface. I will have to make sure that the cam and oil pump have enough clearance when mocking up the engine.

I still need to remove this stud and replace with a different size to install the dog house cooler. I will also need to drill those two holes out to fit the cooler. The upper engine mount on the drivers side will need the permanent nut installed as I will not have access to it when the dog house cooler and fan shroud is installed.

Vintage Volkswagen Spring Festival

2011-05-16T19:34:00.000-07:00

On May 15th, Jessieca and I attended the Vintage Volkswagen Spring Festival in Carlsbad, CA near San Diego. It was a drizzly day. Not good for a car show. Everyone was wiping down their cars due to the light drizzle all day. We don't get very much rain here in SD so even when it comes at an inopportune time, we will take it. Anyway, no rain while Jess and I were there.

I took pictures of the cars and buses but they were pretty crammed in therefore there was not much room to take pictures.

This car was just interesting with all the rust. Only a show car.

I would really love to have a thing.

Lots of nice buses.

Custom interior in a splitty.

Kinda like the rust bucket above with the brushed on paint designs.

Really nice pick up.

Cool ambulance.

Fire vehicle.

Very clean splitty with a turbo no less.

The steering wheel looks very expensive. Lots of gauges.

Ok?

Same guy from the Coronado show.

Nice split window.

We hung out for about an hour or so. It was a nice show and of course we had a good time. I don't know of any other shows in the near future. I will have to do some research. Until then, I will be posting about my case that I got back from Headflow Masters this past week.

New Tires

2011-05-10T20:50:00.000-07:00

I finally installed new tires on the Egg. They are General Grabber AT2. I like them a lot. They make some noise but it is not very much at all. They are very smooth and handling is ok. I did sacrifice some handling with these tires over more road type tires. But I am willing to take that sacrifice to get the off road capabilities of these tires.

I put the air suspension in off road mode for the pictures so that I could see the tires better.

They look pretty good too.

I cleaned up the exhaust tips.

Aggressive tread.

I believe that these tires are made to a size that will fit my bus. So I will be looking for these tires to put on the bus.

Case clean up

2011-04-27T06:06:00.000-07:00

If you remember back a few months ago, I had a case crack repaired. Well, I did not use that case. The crack on the inside went through the main saddle stud holes. This means that the oil may leak into these holes then out of through the washer and nuts on the side of the case. I did not want to take that chance. So started looking for a new used case to use in my bus. I found the case below that was out of a 1970 type 3 based on the numbers. I bought the case for $200 plus shipping. The case has standard registers and main bearings. So this thing has never been rebuilt. It also had an extra ordinary amount of dirt coated on it that was thick and stuck on. These next few pictures show a case half that I already cleaned off most of the dirt.

Below is where the case half is pretty clean. I will clean again one more time.

Below is the other case half. The other side was just as bad as what you see in the next few pictures.

Kind of a before and after shot but actually each case half with one side not cleaned yet.

I had shots of the process of cleaning but I guess I did not save them. Anyway, the next few pictures are of both sides cleaned.

There was a lot of dirt removed from these case halves.

Now the case is at Headflow Masters to get machined for 94s, aligned bored, full flowed, case savers, weld behind #3 and shuffle pinned for good measures, and add a dip stick as this case does not have one. I will tap the oil galleys and fix up the oil cooler mounts to fit the dog house oil cooler.

Motor Cars on Main Street in Coronado, CA

2011-04-23T11:44:00.000-07:00

Jessieca and I attended the Motor Cars on Main Street in Coronado Ca on 4-17-11. It was a bit cloudy that day but the sun came out for some time. This show was free for viewing so it was a no brainer to spend a Sunday afternoon in Coronado next to the Hotel del Coronado. The cars were 1972 or older for this show.

One very nice Malibu.

First volkswagen we saw at the beginning of our walk. However this car is not aircooled.

The toy above is the same as the baja below. A very nice baja that IS aircooled. This baja was just in front of the red one pictured above.

Pictured below is the interior of the gray baja.

Pictured above and below is an example of a stock 66 Mustang.

Below is the straight six cylinder for the 66 Mustang.

Nice row of early Corvettes.

What do ya know, another early San Diego Police car.

Shotgun and all.

Nice splitty.

I thought this Camaro was just very clean. The engine looked right off the show room floor. Very nicely done.

Nice triple carbed engine in this GTO.

Couple of nice old Porsches.

Manx

Above is Jessieca (on the right of the Cobra) checking out the nice Cobra.

If you look where the front of the hood is, you can see the top of the radiator that is tilted towards the rear. You can barely see it but it is a big radiator in there and it had to tilted to make it fit.

I liked this Jeep. All stock.

Below is another picture of the GTO with the triples with the hood closed.

Nice Jag.

Now this is a SUV.

Vintage RV.

At least the show had a few aircooleds showing.

I talked with the owner of this bug. He had to demonstrate the semaphores that were installed in this bug.

Semaphore demonstration.

Here is a truck we found towards the end of our walk in the show.

Bamboo interior.

Now this Crown Victoria was very interesting. I have never seen nor heard of this type of car. It has a large sun roof that is not retractable but has a retractable headliner when you want some shade.

I thought this was a very clean and well done car.

Again, we had a good time at this show. It got sunnier as the day went on. We spent about 1.5 hours at the show. We learned that there will be another show in our neck of the woods for SV2s in Carlsbad CA in May so we maybe attended that one also. Till then, stay aircool.

Touareg E brake gas shock replacement

2011-04-20T07:55:00.000-07:00

My e brake for my Touareg would not come all the way up when released. Therefore, the e brake indicator light and alarm would come on when I started to drive. I bought a new shock from the dealer thinking it should not be too expensive. But it was about $65 which is about $30 more than I expected. I believe it could be had for less if one shopped around.

Installation was not very difficult. Just slide the clip towards the end of the shock like pictured below.

You then just insert the shock ends into place, then slide the fasteners back into place and they will lock.

Removing the old one is harder than installing the new one. Mostly because the clip is harder to get to so that you can slide it off. But once you move the clip, the shock comes right out.

As you can see, the upper mount is the hardest to get to.

The old shock was very worn. Very easy to push in and pull out. The new one, on the other hand, was very difficult to move in and out.

La Jolla Motor Car Classic

2011-04-03T18:09:00.000-07:00

Jessieca and I attended the La Jolla Motor Car Classic this weekend. It was a nice day despite what the weather man said. I didn't take pictures of all of the cars as I like looking at the cars and taking pictures takes away from that for me. Anyway, I took more pictures this show than I ever have before.

Above, Jessieca (in the brown) is checking out some MBZs from the old to the new.

I took several pictures of Porsches.

This car above was just interesting.

Of course the Bugatti was a cool car to look at.

I thought this old school SDPD cruiser was cool.

Here is the only volkswagen addition as long as you don't count Audi, Porsche, Bugatti, Bently or any other car maker vw owns.

Nice air brush work. Classic Rock musicians are depicted all over the bus.

Non stock interior in the rear but very well done.

Surf board to go with it with a nice roof rack to hold it.

Very large rag top.

There is leather or similar material covering the dash. Also it has some modern accessories.

Coverings also on the shifter, e brake and steering.

Seems to be a good overall job.

Visor above windshield.

Those bumper stickers are not stickers at all, they are painted on. Everything you see is painted.

Randy Hutto is the owner of this bus and is the owner of a local shop here in San Diego called Randy's Foreign Car Clinic. I talked with him for just a couple of minutes but he seemed to be a cool guy.

A booth had some pictures for sale of the bus above.

I love nice engines!

A wild ride. Not sure how safe.

I love engines!

A different kind of air cooled vehicle. However this is a three wheeled vehicle. One wheel in the rear. The interesting this about this is it is a 2010 vehicle. I would not have thought that. It is a Moto Guzzi engine.

Overall we had a good time at this show.

Touareg Headlight Bulb Replacement

2011-03-26T22:11:00.000-07:00

This headlight assembly is larger than I would have thought.

You can see a plug where the assembly gets its power. I was expecting a wire to be hanging from the back of the assembly. Also notice the larger black cover with a spring lock. This is where the actual bulb is located.

It is very easy to get to by sliding the lock to the side as shown.

Then remove the cover and the HID bulb is right there.

The bulb is also held in place by a spring holder. If you look closely, you can see small metal fingers holding the bulb all around the sides. These fingers hold the bulb in place and you have to work the bulb in and out to remove and replace it.

There is this wire harness that attaches to the side of the bulb. It pulls right off.

Don't touch the bulb as the oils on your hands and fingers will damage and shorten the life the bulb.

To remove the headlight assembly, use the provided tool that comes with the Touareg tool kit. It fits the crank to assist with removing the headlight assembly. It clicks, then moves the headlight towards the front of the vehicle. Once you are at that point, these tabs below will stop you from completely removing the assembly.

While pushing with your left hand on the assembly towards the front you must use something (the owners manual says to use the crank tool but I used a long thin screwdriver which worked better) to push this tab down at the same time. Once you get past this tab, the assembly comes out easily.

I used this long screwdriver to push down on the release tab.

You can see below where to insert the tool to push down on the tab.

You will have to angle the tool and push out the light at the same time and light should come right out.

Camping

2011-01-18T22:15:00.000-08:00

I have not gone camping in some time now so I figured I would post all my pictures of camping trips from the past. So I have tried to arrange them so that the same location is together. However, each location may have several trips grouped together.

The first is my favorite location for camping. It is McCain Valley near the town of Boulevard in Eastern San Diego County. The campground that is pictured is called Cottonwood. It is about 14 miles in on a dirt road that winds through some scenic areas.

The above is one camp site that is within the Cottonwood campground.

This picture is a different view of the above camp site.

This one is one site to the right from the site above. That is my daughter playing some video game at the table. This picture was take several year ago.

This is a third camp site that I stayed in within the Cottonwood campground.

On the 14 mile dirt road, these wind mills can be seen on the nearby indian reservation.

This picture is actually off the beaten path of the dirt road. This is the Impossible RailRoad built in the early 1900s. There are several tunnels built in this mountain track. Many men lost their lives building this in the past.

There are many views from McCain Valley.

This is one the view points that you can get a vehicle.

You can see the view behind my bus.

Jessieca texting with a great view in the background.

Pictures on the way to the Cottonwood campground.

I actually used my bus to pull a trailer with ATVs to the dunes. This area is called Buttercup. Buttercup is about 15 miles west of the Arizona and California borders. It is just north of the Mexican border by about a mile. Very nice smooth dunes for some nice riding.

When I want to ride on some hard pack, I go to Ocotillo Wells. The above picture is when I first started pulling a trailer with the ATVs.

The above picture is Buttercup again but with a new trailer and we brought a friend of my daughter.

Another picture of Buttercup camping/riding.

Once I bought my Touareg, I used it to pull the trailer with ATVs. However, I had to tent camp when using the Egg.

Another picture of my Touareg in Buttercup.

The next few pictures are on Laguna Mt in San Diego County. This area is about 5000 feet in elevation.

This picture is of Cibbets Flat at about 4000 feet in elevation on Laguna Mt.

The next few pictures are Burnt Rancheria on Laguna Mt. Burnt Rancheria is about 6000 feet in elevation. The Pacific Crest Trail is close by and makes for great hiking and scenery.

The hiking was very good around this campground. The biking was a little tougher as we were not in good enough shape for the elevation.

Jessieca and I have done some camping at the beach also. This is South Carlsbad State Beach campground. It is not easy to get a good site here because you have to reserve the site and a lot of people camp this campground.

My site was not on the beach side of the road but was not bad. I was a fun time that weekend.

If you really tried, you could see the Pacific Ocean from the site.

Jessieca during a hike on the Pacific Crest Trial.

Your truly when I shaved my head clean.

Here is Jessieca posing with my bus on top of Laguna Mt.

This campground is Green Valley Falls. It is in the Laguna, Cuyamaca Mountains.

This is the Grand Canyon. We camped about a quarter mile from the rim. My daughter and I stayed 5 days. We drove there from San Diego with my bus.

My daughter and I took a scenic tour of the canyon.

Me again

My daughter Alexa.

That I pretty much all my pictures of camping. I have camped more and I actually have more pictures but they are not digitized (is that a word). I need to get working on my bus so I can get more pictures and more adventures.

San Diego International Auto Show

2011-01-04T06:04:00.000-08:00

Jessieca and I attended the San Diego International Auto Show in downtown SD. It is always fun looking at the new cars. Below is the new Boss 302 Mustang. It is a pretty impressive car.

The few shots are camping vans by Mercedes and Ford. They are impressive vans but for about $80K so they are not cheap.

I really liked this Ford. Very urban assault vehicle look!!

There were a couple of clubs exhibiting at the show which was a nice surprise. Strictly Vintage and San Diego Air Cooled Syndicate were the two clubs.

Risking a fixed crack in a case

2010-12-18T14:05:00.000-08:00

I had sent my case to Adrian at Headflow Masters to be checked and he found a crack behind #1. That is not the normal location for cracks. You would think behind #3. I now understand more as to what the reasons are for the cracks behind #3 and other cracks, so this crack behind #1 does not make a lot of sense why it is there. It is not a stressed area.

Adrian stated that he has fixed these before but not sure of the reliability of the fix. He welded a plate (Al I believe) behind the #1 as seen below.

As you can see, this is the same modification that is done behind #3 to prevent cracks normally. You can also notice that an align bore was done as the welding most likely moved things a bit. The thrust surface was good and did not need machining. So I have the case back and it is ready to be cleaned with soap and water and make sure all the oil passages are clear and clean.

Adrian showed me some other mods he is doing to cases to make them stronger. They appear to be something I would like him to modify my case sometime in the future.

I also had the crank sent out for grinding and they communicated that it was cracked all over and was no good. I obviously had to buy new. Adrian was doing this leg work for me and had called me to tell me the bad news, I had to make a decision between a chinese crank, stock, counter weighted chinese or brazilian cranks. I had the brazilian counter weighted before and choose it again.

There is a coating on the crank that I will have to clean off before any kind of assembly can happen. Notice the eight dowels for the flywheel. This is what I had before.

It did not break but I guess it was cracked. I did not know how to do the ring test well until I received the new one a day ago.

Preparing case

2010-11-09T06:03:00.000-08:00

I did a few things to the case such as threaded the oil galleys, removed some flashing and cleaned the case.

The pic below is the handy work of Adrian at Headflow Masters where he installed a plug to do his special full flow system. You can also see where he installed a cylindrical (like a pipe) in the bottom hole (oil pressure by pass).

In these next pics, you can see the saddle bearings.

This one which is #2, you can see the numbers from the bearing which indicates that it was being pounded by the crank. Probably when I was have the trouble with the carbs and the engine ran unevenly.

I will be looking up Adrian again to have another align bore done to the case and cut the thrust bearing. Not sure it the thrust is pounded out or not.

Chasing the infamous oil leak

2010-09-02T18:57:00.000-07:00

As I have stated in previous posts, I have an oil leak that is coming from the flywheel area. I am also having leaks from the rear of the engine. That may be that the rings did not seat well and I have blow by now which is pushing oil out of the dip stick hole.

This pic is of the cam plug which I found to be leaking as it is wet with oil around the plug. It is hard to see in the pic.

So, I split the case as I needed to get to the leak from the cam plug.

These are pics of the disassembled engine. I will be taking out all plugs from the oil galleys to clean the case well. I will then take the case to Adrian Audirac here in Vista to clean and inspect the case.

The lifters looked really good.

The bearings looked ok. There were a few scratches on them but overall looked good. The surfaces on the cam and crank looked good also. Nothing a good polish won't fix. The lobes on the cam looked good (not going flat so the breakin procedure worked).

Engine Speed Sensor R&R

2010-06-29T19:39:00.000-07:00

Or it is also known as the crankshaft position sensor. As stated in my last post, I needed to replace the engine speed sensor on the Touareg because it was not starting every time. Anyway, here is a little write up on how to replace this sensor.

First of all, here is a bit from my manual which does not shed enough light on how to get this done.

Volkswagen Touareg

ENGINE PERFORMANCE 4.2 Liter V8 5V Generic Scan Tool, Engine Code(s): AXQ, BHX

Engine speed (RPM) sensor, checking

Function

The Engine Speed (RPM) Sensor -G28- detects engine speed and reference marks. Without an engine speed

signal, the engine will not start. If the engine speed signal fails while the engine is running, the engine will stop

immediately.

Recommended special tools and equipment

 VAG1526 multimeter or VAG1715 multimeter

 VAG1594 connector test kit

 Wiring diagram

Test requirements

 Ground (GND) connections between engine and chassis must be OK.

 Ignition switched off.

Test sequence

 Disconnect gray 3-pin harness connector (arrow) to Engine Speed (RPM) Sensor -G28-.

 Measure sensor resistance between terminals 2+3 at connector to sensor.

Specified value: 480 to 1000 ohms

 Check sensor for short circuit between terminals 1+2 as well as 1+3.

Specified value: infinity ohms

If specified values are obtained:

 Check wires according to wiring diagram. Refer to Checking wiring.

If specified values are not obtained:

 Replace Engine Speed (RPM) Sensor -G28-.

 Erase DTC memory of Engine Control Module (ECM). Refer to Diagnostic mode 4: Reset/erase

diagnostic data.

 Generate readiness code. Refer to Generating readiness code.

Checking wiring

 Connect test box to control module wiring harness. Refer to Connecting test box for wiring test.

 Check wires between test box and 3-pin connector for open circuit according to wiring diagram.

Terminal 1 + socket 108

Terminal 2 + socket 90

Terminal 3 + socket 82

Wire resistance: max. 1.5 ohms

 Also check wires for short circuit to each other.

Specified value: infinity ohms

If no malfunctions are found in wires:

 Remove sensor and check sensor wheel for secure fit, damage, and run-out.

If nothing seems to be wrong with the sensor wheel:

 Replace Motronic Engine Control Module (ECM) -J220-. Refer to Engine Control Module (ECM),

replacing.

NOTE: There is a larger-sized gap on the sensor wheel. This gap is the reference mark

and does not mean that the sensor wheel is damaged.

After reading that and looking at a couple of pictures, it was still not clear what it took to remove and replace this sensor. I definitely knew how to test the sensor. Here is the engine bay before I started.

Then I removed the plastic covers.

I had to buy spring clamp pliers to remove the spring clamps of the intake hose.

I then removed the intake hose.

Not very much room to work with behind the engine. This is where the upper connection of the sensor is located. As you can see in the second picture.

You can see the gray connector in the mirror. Not an easy location to get your hands.

I also removed the bottom plastic cover.

I also removed part of the hood support so that I had better access.

This process in total took me about 1.5 hours to complete. Not too bad. The part cost about $115 and the dealer would get about 2 hours of labor or about $200.

Touareg Woes

2010-06-07T07:36:00.000-07:00

The Touareg has been having its moments lately. It has a bit over 80K miles and several items are needing replacing such as timing belt, water pump, thermostat and all the pulleys and tensioners that go with it. However, while waiting for my appointment to replace my keyless entry unit by the dealer that was malfunctioning, the Touareg decided to overheat. On the side of the road, I did all of the usual things such as check for leaks, check for water in the oil but nothing could be found. So I called a tow truck to get it home. After getting towed home, I checked the coolant level and found it to be a bit low. I added water and it took only about two cups of water so not really low. I then did some research and concluded that the thermostat was the culprit. I called the dealer for a price and since the thermostat is behind the timing belt, and decided to get it all done while I was at it.

$1400 later, I was on my way home from the dealer and the Touareg overheated again. I called the dealer back and they came and got the Egg and gave my another loaner. The next couple of days and I got the Egg back working in regards to the overheating. I forgot to check the keyless entry while at the dealer. I checked when I got home it was not working. So I called the dealer back. I still need to bring it in to have them look at the keyless entry again.

Now, I have yet a new problem that just came about. Now, the Egg is cranking over but not starting. It has done this to me on three different occasions. After about a dozen tries and waiting several minutes, it finally starts. I did some investigation and have determined that the engine speed (RPM) sensor is going bad. I worried that one of these times it will not start at all. I will be testing the sensor this week if I can physically locate it. If bad, I will replace it. It appears to cost about $70 to $100 to buy online. More on this later.

In search of oil leaks

2010-06-07T07:22:00.000-07:00

I have started the investigation of oil leaks of my bus engine. At the same time, I have sent my dells to Air Cooled Engineering (ACE) for rebuilding. They have had my carbs for a little over a week now.

ACE called and informed me that they are working on my carbs. They will be bead blasting inside and out. I had installed the Jet Doctor from CB but the people at ACE do not like the Jet Doctors due to tuning issues when using them. So we are going to go back to stock jet holders. Also, I had installed small vents (30mm) and found out that the air jets were 200s and not 180s as marked. So, we are going to go back to the stock vents (34mm) and get 180 airs installed and test. I have to send these (other than the 180 airs) parts to ACE so they can install and test.

Right now, the motor is on the floor in the garage and I have removed the crank pulley to look behind it. I do find some oil that seemingly is coming from the pulley hole. This is probably due to blow by from the rings. Next I will be removing more components from the engine.

4-30-10 camping trip

2010-05-04T07:18:00.000-07:00

This is why I go to McCain Valley for camping and hiking. You never know what you might find out there. Jessieca and I went hiking for about an hour or so and were resting up high on a large rock when she asked me if anyone lived out here. I said no way, we are too far out and there are no roads out here. She said " what is that house over there then", and I said "what!?". So I broke out the binoculars and looked at what she saw. Here are a couple of pics of what we saw. This pic was taken from the rock we were resting on.

This pic is a close up from the rock we were on.

So we decided to hike out to the house and check it out. It was pretty scary at first like the movie The Hill Have Eyes. Jess did not want to go in at first but I was determined. The building is all shot out as you can see when you click on the pic and enlarge it. Just look through the front windows and door and you can see through the house. The red cylinder next to the house I believe is a water tank. It is just a few rooms inside with not much drywall left. It had some kind of running water and working bathroom at some time as there was a toilet inside (all broken up). Also, as you can see, there is not really and access other than a small dirt road that we found when we got close.

One of our favorite spots at McCain. This is in the cottonwood campground.

Actually first time camping with the Egg that did not involve a trailer (usually riding ATVs). I have to learn how to pack it without a trailer. I did not do so well this trip because I could not get everything we wanted in the Egg.

PDA Vag for Touareg

2010-04-10T19:03:00.000-07:00

As I stated in my last post, I had been investigating a Palm PDA to scan my Touareg. Go to this site to read what I purchased. As stated in my last post, I bought the PDA from ebay for $30. I downloaded the software from the above site and bought the cable from them also. I have scanned my Touareg and cleared codes. This unit will allow you to recode also.

I have not been able to connect to all of the ECUs that I think I should. I have emailed the people at VAD to see if they have any suggestions to getting connected to more ECUs.

Here is some of the scans I have done so far. You can see what the software will give you.

4.2L V8/5V G 0010

DTCs: 0

P/N: 4D0 907 560 DB

Coding: 0007875, WSC: 31414

*P*

ESP ALLRAD MK25 0202

DTCs: 0

P/N: 7L0 907 379 E

Coding: 0014594, WSC: 31414

*P*

CLIMAtronic R/L X 3716

DTCs: 0

P/N: 7L6 907 040 H

Coding: 0020020, WSC: 25799

*P*

KOMBIINSTRUMENT RB8 2935

DTCs: 0

P/N: 7L6 920 980 M

Coding: 0007231, WSC: 22136

*P*

TRANSFERCASE 0122

DTCs: 0

P/N: 0AD 927 755 BE

Coding: 0000000, WSC: 00000

*P*

Navigation 0628

DTCs: 0

P/N: 7L6 919 887 D

Coding: 0000002, WSC: 31414

*P*

H6 HSG 0200

DTCs: 1

P/N: 7L0 959 933 E

Coding: 0000085, WSC: 31414

*P*

00486 103

Front Passenger's Outside Door Handle Central Locking Button -E370: Short circuit to Ground (GND) [static]

Radio 0628

DTCs: 0

P/N: 7L6 035 186 A

Coding: 0005055, WSC: 31414

*P*

Sitzverstellung 0701

DTCs: 0

P/N: 7L0 959 760

Coding: 0000000, WSC: 00000

*P*

2703

DTCs: 1

P/N: 7L6 937 049 K

Coding: 0105695, WSC: 31414

*P*

01517 110

Control Module for towing sensor -J345: faulty [static]

Lenksäulenmodul 3301

DTCs: 0

P/N: 7L6 953 549 D

Coding: 0000032, WSC: 31414

*P*

Gateway K<>CAN 0101

DTCs: 0

P/N: 6N0 909 901

Coding: 0000006, WSC: 31414

*P*

Kessy 6400

DTCs: 4

P/N: 3D0 909 135 M

Coding: 0131304, WSC: 31414

*P*

00179 107

Left Access/Start Authorization Antenna -R134: Interruption [static]

00180 107

Right Access/Start Authorization Antenna -R135: Interruption [static]

00181 107

Access/Start Authorization Antenna (in rear bumper) -R136: Interruption [static]

00183 107

Interior Access/Start Authorization Antenna 1 -R138: Interruption [static]

Sitzverstellung 0701

DTCs: 0

P/N: 7L0 959 760

Coding: 0000000, WSC: 00000

*P*

Front Wiper 2416

DTCs: 0

P/N: 7L0 955 119 F

Coding: 0000004, WSC: 31414

*P*

As you can see, the Touareg has some faults. It actually has a few more ECUs scanned than are above that and at least one has another fault. The problem I see so far with these scans is the title of what the ECU is for is not always listed. I will continue to work with this tool to understand it. I have been working with it now for about 8 hours.

Treg maintenance

2010-02-23T07:12:00.000-08:00

I will be changing out the rear tires and changing oil and filter this weekend. I will give an update this weekend. I am doing this before I dig into the bus more to investigate a pretty bad oil leak. I may be that I tear down the motor to fix (possible cracked case). So I will do this Treg maintenance before I have my bus in the garage taking up all the space.

I changed the oil and filter on 3-1-10. All went well. I used Mobile One 0w-40 and bought the filter, o-rings and new washers for the drain plugs on line from ECS tuning. Good prices and lots of parts for the Egg.

On 3-19-10, one of the ignition coil packs failed on the egg again. First time was the #2 and this time was #5. It cost about $150 at the dealer to get it replaced.

So I started investigating a Vag-Com scan tool for the Egg. Ross Tech is the one to get but it runs on windows and I have a Mac. I don't want to run windows on the Mac. In my investigation, I found a VAD system that uses a Palm pda. You buy the software and cable from VAD for about $250 and download the software onto the Palm pda and then you can use this to scan your vehicle as the Ross Tech software. I am going to go the VAD route. I have bought a pda off of ebay for $30 and should have it in a few days. I will be purchasing the VAD software once I get the pda in my hands.

If this pda works with the software and I can successfully scan and update the electronics on the Egg, I should be able to see what cylinder has a defective coil pack and replace if for $20 rather than the $150 at the dealer. The coil pack puller cost about $20 and coil packs themselves are about $20 also.

Over nighter in McCain Valley

2010-02-14T09:48:00.000-08:00

Since the bus is running ok, we are going to attempt a one night trip to McCain Valley. McCain Valley is about an 80 mile trip one way. Not really far but there are some mountains to get up to get there. I will drive the bus every day to work this week and see how it does. As long as no serious problems, we're going.

Well, we never went camping this past weekend. I had foot surgery the day before and thought that it would be ok for camping the next day (doc said I could do whatever I wanted the next day). But my feet were too sore for camping. Maybe in two weeks we will try again. However, we will be taking the Treg rather than the bus.

Power loss investigation

2010-01-31T17:24:00.000-08:00

10-24-09

For that past couple of years, I have been chasing a problem with my motor. My motor would run on three cylinders (at least it seemed like it) if I took the motor past 4000 rpms, especially in 3rd gear. I have changed everything from plugs, wires, rotor, cap and coil. Nothing would make it go away. I even changed distributors. I also cleaned and rechecked the carbs. Nothing would fix this problem. Finally, I was reading were you need to sand down the base of the rotor when using a pertronix ignition unit. I had never done this. I had pertronix units on both distributors that I used to try and fix this. I sanded down the rotor on the current distributor and now the problem seems to have gone away. I can not make happen now. I could put another rotor in and make come and go probably but it seems that may not be necessary as it is not happening now. So I learned something new and will not make this mistake again.

11-16-09

It did not take long for the problem to come back. So I tried more adjustments and investigation.

I adjusted my carb floats from 5mm/12mm to 6mm/13mm. I also did find a piece of o-ring in the main jet stack for the 1/2 side. This seems to have killed my 2 year old gremlin. I will be continuing to drive the bus to make sure that the gremlin is dead. I may be able to concentrate on something else for a change on the bus.

11-19-09

The gremlin is still alive. I seemed to have affected it with the carb float adjustments. I will be taking the floats out on Friday and weighing them to see if they are starting to soak with gas and getting heavier. There is a weight spec on the side of the float. If I find that they are heavy, I will lower the float from 6mm to 7mm to try and compensate for the heavier float until I get new ones. Hopefully this is on the right track.

11-25-09

It seems that I am not getting any where with this fix. I sent an email to aircooled.net and asked the question of how to get at my gremlin that affects my bus. They responded to my pretty detailed question with that they think my gas tank has an obstruction or something. So I will be draining my tank next to see what comes out of it. This is about the only thing that I have not done so far.

12-5-09

I made sure that the tank outlet was flowing with no obstructions and still the gremlin exists. So I may switch my carbs back to my kadrons that I once had on the motor. They will need to be cleaned. Also one of the manifolds has a broken mounting tab. I will have to buy new manifolds and open them up to match the head intake runners. I will also have to modify the vacuum system for the power assist brake vacuum line that gets its vacuum from the intake manifolds. I had modified this from the kadron set up to the dell set up. So all of this will take me a couple of weeks to accomplish. I will be starting this weekend by removing the motor and ordering new manifolds. That's all for now.

1-31-10

I have now swapped from the dells to the kads. It took a lot of work but it is done now. I am still having some tuning and linkage issues. However, it seems that changing out the carbs did the trick for eliminating my gremlin that was a loss of power when I hit high rpms. Here is what I did to get the carbs installed.

I had to remove the old carbs, fanshroud, thermostat, cc breather and a few other things.

I then had to install a different fan shroud because the manifolds that I bought were shorter and did not clear my original shroud. This shroud I had already but it is for fuel injection and did not have the hole in the correct location for the accelerator cable. So I had to drill one. I also had to clearance this shroud with a hammer for the carbs.

Here is the shroud installed.

Here is the coil installed in a different position than my original.

Here my cc breather is now installed and also you can see where I installed a new holley pressure regulator.

Here are the kads before installing. New manifolds with the balance tube fittings.

Now the carbs are installed.

This linkage (Scat) is a good one. However, it takes a bit to get it right. It also has clearance issues with my breather hose you can see.

Much better linkage ends compared to the original kad linkage. Much more adjustable.

Here is showing new copper nuts (12mm) I am using on the manifolds for more socket room. These are self locking nuts.

New Front brakes for the Touareg

2009-11-16T08:44:00.000-08:00

I ordered new front brakes from Arletta Truck parts online from Club Touareg. These cost me $480 for rotors, pads, sensors and hardware. I received them today 11-16-09.

Limped home

2009-11-06T17:11:00.000-08:00

The bus limped home yesterday when coming home from work. The 2 year old gremlin struck with a vengeance. I tried shutting off the motor and checking spark in all cylinders. Nothing made it run right this time. So I just left for home about 22 miles. I made it without issue but the power of the motor was way down. I needed to pull the motor to see if I could find anything in the ignition or carburetor systems. So I took Friday off work even though I really needed to work but no car so what are you going to do.

I pulled the motor then removed the spark plugs. I found the #1 spark plug seemed gas fouled as it appeared wet but was not wet. It had a glazed look to it. I also found the spark plug (#2) with the CHT sender under it was leaking. I replaced the glazed plug and moved the CHT to the #3 spark plug and hopefully it will seal better there.

I also removed the tops of the carbs and remeasured the float positions. The left side upper position was correct but the drop position was too much (about 15mm). So I adjusted it to about 12mm. The right side seemed out in both positions. I adjusted them into the proper positions of about 5mm and 12mm. But I also found a clip that holds the float in the bottom of the bowl. This may have been the 2 year old gremlin giving me issues intermittently. So I will reinstall the motor today and we will see if I indeed fixed the gremlin.

More tuning

2009-11-05T13:21:00.000-08:00

I just ordered more Brad Penn 10w/30 motor oil. I tried to order from LN Engineering but their website does not seem to work so I ordered it from another site. I can not remember the site name so I will have to get back to it later. I will be doing an oil change in a week or so.

I also ordered some jets for the carbs. Right now I have 1.25 mains and .55 idles. I ordered 1.20 and 1.22 mains and .58 idles from CB Performance. My motor seems a bit mushy on the top end hence the smaller mains. With the .55 idles, the idle adjustment is about 5.5 turns out with a hint of spitting from the carbs once in a while. So I will go with the next half size larger to get the number turns out down a couple of turns and to see if the motor will run without any spitting from the carbs.

Another Trip to McCain Valley

2009-10-19T06:19:00.000-07:00

Cibbets Flat would not allow fires, we ended up at McCain Valley. Here are some pics.

This is a pic of me and my girl friend.

Kicking it at McCain Valley

My girl friend on the right and our good friends on the left.

Minor tune up before camping

2009-10-12T05:40:00.000-07:00

The bus seemed to be a bit sluggish lately. I changed the spark plugs and wires this weekend thinking that the plugs were fouled. The plugs looked good in regards to color and were very clean. It appears that they were not fouled. However, after the change, the bus was markedly more responsive. So it appears that maybe the spark plug wires were worn out. We will watch how long the responsiveness lasts. Unfortunately, one of the new wires was broken out of the package. They are Taylor wires and one of the short wires ends that go into the distributor was broken off. So I had to use one of the old wires until I get another new set.

Cibbets Flat Camping Trip

2009-10-10T13:15:00.000-07:00

Another camping trip is planned at Cibbets Flat on Laguna Mt in San Diego County. We will going on 10-16-09 and coming back 10-18-09. Ray and Elsa will be joining Jessieca (my girlfriend) and myself. Excellent hiking at this location. There is a stream near by that runs through the campground. No hook ups but the vault toilets are clean. I believe there are water spouts scattered about. Overall a very nice campground that no reservations are needed or taken.

My Father

2009-09-28T05:43:00.000-07:00

Yesterday was a sad and tough day. My father passed away at approx. 5:45am on 9-27-09 of a massive heart attack. He has had heart disease so this was not unexpected but not easy none the less. My parents were the ones who got me into camping. My father was the one who influenced me to take on mechanics as a hobby. I will miss him.

McCain Valley view point

2009-09-26T19:48:00.001-07:00

The bus parked at the view point.

The dirt road you can see is the road I had to take to get there. Doesn't look bad from here as it really was.

The bus parked at the view point.

Grand Canyon Camping

2009-09-26T09:11:00.000-07:00

Here are a couple of shots of the Grand Canyon. The second pic is our camp site for a week (5 days).

Green Valley Falls Camping

2009-09-26T09:03:00.000-07:00

Ok, we have a camp trip scheduled for mid Sept. So far my girlfriend and I are going along with a buddy of mine and his family. We will camp at Green Valley Falls on Cuyamaca Mt. in San Diego County. Will post some pics once we get back. We will be going in my bus on this trip since it is just a camping trip and not a riding(quads)/camping trip.

I forgot to bring my camera camping saw the only pics it took were with my phone. So they will be not as good as I would have liked. I will be posting those and past camping pics soon. Stay tuned.

Here are a couple of lame pics from this weekends trip. I had forgot my camera so this is all I took. This is at Green Valley Falls on Cuyamaca Mt. in San Diego County.

Oil pressure issues

2009-09-06T18:44:00.000-07:00

9-1-09

I have 2200 miles on the motor now. Oil pressure was a bit high so I changed oil pumps. I did have a 30mm pump from Berg but now I have a 26mm pump from aircooled.net. Since then, I have been low oil pressures at idle. I did face the oil pump cover and blue printed the pump according to the How To Hotrod you VW book. Then I found that my oil pickup came loose. The tab that holds it to the drain broke. I had to fab up and attach something to hold in place. I also swaged the other end in the case. However, my idle pressure was still low. I then looked at my oil reliefs. I did have a custom oiling system by Headflow Masters that uses a steel ball in place of the original piston. I removed the custom components and reinstalled the stock components. I also had 0w-20 oil in an effort to reduce oil pressure initially. I removed that oil and used 10w-30 Brad Penn oil. All of this finally got my idle pressure to about 7 to 10 lbs when hot.

9-6-09

I changed the oil relief piston back to the ball. What I found is that it was not sealing well and therefore much of the oil was bypassing the cooler and therefore the oil was getting hotter than normal. I changed to a stronger spring also. I will have to make sure that the idle pressure stays where it should. I will report on that in a couple of days.

9-24-09

Well I'm back from camping. My oil pressure seems to be under control now. I actually reinstalled the oil control piston and still using the ball valve for pressure relief. I have several oil control pistons in my spare parts. However, one was taller than the rest. The diameter was the same but longer by about .050". This seemed to make a difference in idle pressure. So that is what I ended up with.

Carbs and last few items

2009-08-27T06:54:00.000-07:00

Getting close. Carbs now installed with linkage.

The motor is ready to install into the bus. Notice the SS heater hoses. Best investment in heater hose I ever made.

This motor is a 1915cc with dual 40mm Delorto Carburetors. Heads are 040 with mild p&p with 40x35.5 SS valves with HD springs. Case and heads were done by Headflow Masters. The cam is a Engle 100. Crank is a CW 69mm. Distributor is a 019 refurbished by Glenn Ring. CR is 8.2 to 1.

Exhaust and fan shroud

2009-08-27T06:53:00.000-07:00

Painted and installed the exhaust and all of the tin is now installed.

Fan shroud going on along with flaps and thermostat (can't see).

Heater boxes

2009-08-27T06:42:00.000-07:00

Differences in heater core of aftermarket boxes and OEM boxes. Notice the size of fins inside. The aftermarkets are larger and less of them.

Heater boxes getting installed.

More views of heater boxes and now lower tins installed.

Cylinder tin and thermocouples

2009-08-27T06:39:00.000-07:00

Here the cylinder tin is installed. Also, CHT senders are installed. I JB welded them adjacent to the spark plug hole just enough to get the spark plug installed. One sender per cylinder.

Rockers and pushrod tubes

2009-08-26T06:52:00.000-07:00

Rocker geometry being verified.

Pushrod tubes now installed.

Rockers installed with valve covers. Also the oil pressure sender now installed.

Oil cooler and crank pulley

2009-08-26T06:50:00.000-07:00

Installed the oil cooler.

Installed pulley tin and pulley. The pulley is a steel pulley rather than aluminum.

Oil Sump

2009-08-26T06:46:00.000-07:00

This is the extension for the 1.5 qt sump. I added the screen since I will not run the stock screen. This will keep bolts and other large objects out. I will have a magnetic drain plug. I will also have a remote oil filter.

Adding a 1.5 qt sump. As you can see, I also installed the full flow fittings on the case.

Piston and Cylinders

2009-08-19T06:53:00.000-07:00

Here the 1 & 2 pistons and cylinders are installed with the air deflector.

Now the 1 & 2 head is now installed.

The 3-4 cylinders and head are now installed.

Installing components onto closed case

2009-08-17T17:02:00.000-07:00

The case has been closed. The distributor drive shaft end play was set to about .035". Installed the distributor and fuel pump block off plate.

Here the alternator stand is installed as are the head studs. Flywheel is also installed.

Here the oil pump is installed along with the oil pressure relief valve and oil temp sender.

Installing components in case

2009-08-17T16:50:00.001-07:00

Case has been decked and align bored. I cleaned up the push rod tube openings so they don't leak.

This case is what I used on my orginal motor. The original had approx. 45K miles before I found the thrust bearing rotating a little. I was in there to repair an oil leak at the main seal. The case is an AS41.

Just installed a German oil pickup tube and started installing cam bearings. Rubber o-rings were installed on the main bearing studs.

Lifters are installed. Cam and main bearings are also installed.

Crank shaft with cam and distributor gears installed. I blued the cam gear a bit heating it up to get it on. Hopefully it will be ok. We will see.

Crank shaft with rods. Cam and cam gear installed. Greased up ready to close the case. I have already check clearances with oil pump and cam gear. Rods were statically balanced.

A little on how we roll

2009-07-22T12:46:00.000-07:00

I will be adding my trials and tribulations of owning and driving a 1971 VW Westfalia bus. Also, I will be describing my adventures in said bus along with my 2005 VW Touareg and my two Honda ATVs.

So here is some of my rigs and how I roll.